Through it all, we can’t help but feel there’s a cer­tain grit­ti­ness miss­ing, which makes the Arti­choke out of step with the Duke City. There’s such New York-ish qual­ity and vari­ety you could almost be eat­ing, well, in New York. The mostly brown kitchen staff and mostly white wait­staff makes us uncom­fort­able. It’s a dif­fi­cult trans­la­tion, and for all its mer­its, we wish it were a lit­tle more grounded in its sur­round­ings, like their sib­ling pizze­ria nextdoor, Farina.